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Hii everyone , In this instructable I will be showing you guys how to make a powerful full range portable bluetooth speaker from scratch. The reason why I built this is I hate using earphones all the time and I dont like the isolation it provides. I always wanted a portable speaker system which I could take to get togethers and parties .It also serves as an awesome entertainment system for your worktable. The reason why I decided to hand build one is because building things is my hobby and the other thing is there was no way I was gonna convince my dad to buy me one ;-). Building It yourself also gives you the freedom to implement your own ideas,designs and modifications.

This portable speaker consist of 6 speakers , two 2 inch 3 watt woofers, two 2 inch 10 watt fullrange speakers and two 1 inch tweeters.The top panel is made up of clear acrylic sheet basically to make it look cooler.The Transparent panel allows you to see the vu meter LEDs and the internal wiring and circuitery. An other advantage is that you dont have to drill extra holes to see the lights on the charging modules and other circuits

The speaker system has dual passive radiators to give it that deep long bass .The audio receiver board used supports bluetooth , usb and SD so it widens connectivity.It has a 10000 mah battery so that you can enjoy hours and hours of music in a single charge.The box is hand built using 5mm plywood,multiwood and mdf which I found in the basement.

Step 1: SPECS:-

1. 3 watts per channel X 4 channels

2. 6 speakers including tweeters (full range)

3. 10000 mah battery (12 hours)

4. USB , Bluetooth, aux and SD support

5. Button feature

6. Micro usb charging

7. Dual passive radiators

8. VU meter

9. Transparent top panel

10. Designed for Wider hearing angle

BastianA41 year ago

hello! nice project, it's awesome. I'm planning on making one just like yours! but i dont know what batery to use, the 18650 are the best choice? and if I can change the woofer for Sub woofer, or if i could add it, I would appreciate your help, greetings from Chile! thanks!

the sub woofer its

(sorry my bad english)

dday9181 year ago

Nice project Patrick, this tutorial was really helpful. I'm planning on making one of my own using the same bluetooth audio board. Where did you wire the auxilary input? Was it wired to the mic input part of the board?

patrick panikulam (author)  dday9181 year ago

I used the 3.5 mm audio female Jack from the link above .
This jack is connected parallely to the output wires from the audio decoder board which goes into the amplifier inputs . This female Jack is designed in such a way that it cuts off the connection between the audio decoder and amplifier and creates a new connection between the aux cable and amplifier when ever an auxiliary cable is plugged into the female Jack

Thanks for the reply. I will make sure to do the same when I wire mine up.

tpruitt31 year ago

Coming from someone who has been in the A/V industry my entire life, I would first like to congratulate you on your will and desire to make this and you did very well for a first time out.

On your next one, instead of hot glue, use Tite-Bond III glue as it bonds everything better, and, if you wait long enough, you wouldnt even need screws after the tite-bond III hardened. Also, very good using the passive radiators. That actually helps more than most people know.

Also, on the next one, if you want to clean it up a bit and make one that looks store bought, use a router to round off the sharp corners on the wood and plexiglass and use some acoustical pass through fabric to cover the front of the speakers. :)

I really enjoyed reading about your project and hope to see your future endeavors. Very good job!

Good ideas there! I'm planing to build a speaker box involving a plexi cylinder (Dia 280mm x H 300mm) 6,5" driver in one end and a passive radiator on the other. The driver (KEF) 48Hz 104dB. Any ideas on that? Thickness on plexi baffle/tube?

It's part of a larger unusual shaped speaker..

patrick panikulam (author)  NPGmember1 year ago
I don't have much experience with plexy glass cylinder , but once I made a speaker using pringles can with 3" drivers on both sides , but I faced a problem !, As the can was too thin , it resonated with the speakers reducing the overall sound quality of the system. So I would prefer a thick plexy glass tube which will stay rigid and not resonate with the speakers, I am not sure but i think it's thickness should be more than 6 mm

Thank U for replying. I am going to make the project with a cylinder thickness thats 20-23mm (!) Diam. 240 mm Length 300 mm. Driver will be KEF Q300. At the other end of the tube Im going to place a passive 8" radiator. It's gonna be interesting to hear that mad mad science stuff...

patrick panikulam (author)  tpruitt31 year ago
Thanks :-)
I used fevibond glue before screwing it on , the hot glue is used just to make sure the joints are airtight
I will surely use tite bond on my next wood based project :-) :-)
Dylan911 year ago

Awesome work thank you for this tutorial:)

patrick panikulam (author)  Dylan911 year ago
You are welcome :)
kiltkop1 year ago
Thanks for the build! Very inspiring. Is there a reason you chose not to isolate the full range speakers from the woofers? Wouldn't it have been better to have the woofers isolated with the passive radiators as not to interfere with the ful range speakers? I plan to try this build but will be installing the woofers on the ends and the radiators in the back. I'll also isolate the ful range from the woofers.
patrick panikulam (author)  kiltkop1 year ago
This is the design i made before the built,
patrick panikulam (author)  kiltkop1 year ago
What you said was exactly my plan , the passive radiator on the back was intended just for the woofers but once I started the built and tested the circuit I figured out that I needed one more battery in parallel to give sufficient current and it took up a lot of space inside.It was impossible to line up all the components inside to add a partition because of limited space and wide batteries
rscanny1 year ago

Cool project, just ordered most of the parts for it now! How did you decide on the zise of the capacitors? And why are there 2 switches?

patrick panikulam (author)  rscanny1 year ago
Thanks :)
I used two 16 volt 1000uf capacitor for each dc to dc stepup module outputs and one 4700uf capacitor parallel to the battery, the size usually doesn't matter much but the voltage should be above 6 Volt
I added the second switch as a power saving feature , it can be used to deactivate one of the amplifiers,. The speaker still sounds amazing just with full range speakers and tweeters when the speakers on the sides are switched off .
If you are planning to build one , I would recommend you use high quality 18650 batteries in parallel which has higer current handling capabilities

Nice design. I like the transparent top where the internal circuitry is visible.

One word of caution though: do not use LiPo/LiIon batteries in parallel or series. That's dangerous as it requires cell balancing which can be done by manufacturer only in most cases. Just buy a higher capacity battery.

Thanks :)
I tried it with single high mah battery first , but it didn't have the sufficient current eventhough it had a huge capacity( maybe because of the internal resistance) . But it's working perfectly once I used two smaller batteries in parallel.
Both the batteries have their own built in charge, discharge and current protection circuit which I think will protect the batteries to an extent.
Can you suggest me any alternatives for parallel battery protection?

You can use LiPo/LiIon batteries in parallel just fine. When you connect them, they need to be at the same voltage. You can use a TP4056 to charge them to the same voltage and then connect them. That is how you balance two cells and after you connect them in parallel they will never become unbalanced.

Using them in series is also fine, as long as you put overdischarge and overvoltage protection on each cell. There are BMS circuits on Aliexpress that you can buy that connect LiPos in series and protect them.

patrick panikulam (author)  freddo631 year ago
Glad I already did that before connecting the batteries in parallel. I fully charged both the batteries to 4.2 Volt using the charging module before parallel connection . Guess the battery are safe, :):)
KumanT1 year ago

Good design and handwork!

patrick panikulam (author)  KumanT1 year ago
Thanks :)
WXB1 year ago

Great post. Do you know the total cost of parts? Is there a list of specific part numbers and/or links to them? I saw a couple of links to speakers in your response to Willtato. Thanks.

patrick panikulam (author)  WXB1 year ago
I have added the links to the parts
The total cost I guess would be around $25 (₹1600) , but it came out cheaper for me as I didn't had to spend money on the box and the mini woofers

Thanks Patrick. Great post.

patrick panikulam (author)  WXB1 year ago
patrick panikulam (author)  WXB1 year ago
I will add the link to each part as soon as possible, I ordered most of it from Aliexpress so it was pretty cheap and I already had some of the components with me , so I didn't had to spend much
WXB WXB1 year ago

Also, I didn't read the entire list of instructions. Do you know or have you already posted the estimated time to complete?

patrick panikulam (author)  WXB1 year ago
It took me 5 days to build it , but I was only working on it for only a few hours a day with limited tools and all,. I think it can be finished in 2 to 3 days
tittiamo681 year ago

Compliments !!!

I'm already working on a similar project, I will use some ideas from yours.

I like shape and simplicity.


patrick panikulam (author)  tittiamo681 year ago
Thanks :-) :-)
By the way, the radio alarm clock u made is just awesome

Bro u did an awesome job.This Speaker looks very powerful. but if u covered it with vinyl paper then it will look more attractive.I really love this new design and I hope u win the audio contest :)

Thanks :-) :-)
vettebob1 year ago

What is the purpose of the three capacitors you added in the circuitry please?


Capacitors store power and release it fast as the amps demand it for the peaks. The power supply modules by themselves will be slower to react and the peaks will clip.

Thanks so much for your answer. I know what capacitors are and do, I just wasn't sure of the purpose here. Some have complained of noise/interference from the power supply using these amps, with varying degrees of success using capacitors to combat the problem. In my case, I am going to use this power filter: "Crazepony L-C Power Supply Filter 2A 16V Input Reverse Polarity Protection for FPV Racing Quadcopter."


patrick panikulam (author)  vettebob1 year ago
It reduces the distortion in high volume
vettebob1 year ago

Very nice. I was already building something similar for my daughter. A WORD OF CAUTION FOR EVERONE!! Be VERY careful when adjusting the step up modules!! Wear face protection and keep the board/capacitors facing away from you. Two days ago, one of these exploded and pieces severely cut my upper lip, right through my mustache! Between the sound of the explosion and the impact, I thought I had been shot! Researching the device, I found this has been known to happen sometimes. The potentiometer can be sketchy, and while being adjusted can suddenly cause the unit to over volt, and explode the output capacitor. I am not saying don't use it, but if you do be very, very careful.

Wow, thanks, I use these a lot

Yes, do be careful with them. It was really as if I had been shot! The sound was as loud as a 22 pistol, and the impaact hurt like crazy. I don't know how to post pics here, but I have a "selfie" of my busted lip. Thank god it didn't hit my eye!! Polarities were correct; voltage was a regulated 12 volts. When I was adjusting the pot, it suddenly exploded the output capacitor. Subsequent research showed that this has happened to others. Use caution with them, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace that cap with one of 50 volts or more. It also wouldn't hurt to "cycle" that potentiometer fully in and out, then position it midway before you ever apply voltage to it. In any case, keep the board facing AWAY from you when first powering it up and while adjusting it. The darn thing almost gave me a heart attack!!


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