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Picture of I-Bot Extruder

The Anet A8 is an extremely popular 3D printer because of its affordability and modifiability. This Printer comes usually as a kit which is easy and fun to put together. Its design is based on the Prusa i3 printer as a cheaper alternative and as such an excellent kit for amateurs who are eager to learn about FDM printing. Many upgrades are readily available on the market as DIY projects or ready to buy. The print quality is somewhat OK, which depends on the actual requirements. I’m using this machine to create prototypes for many of my projects which unfortunately sometimes not quite reach the necessary quality for the purpose. Many of my original printers’ parts have been already replaced to archive that little bit higher quality level.

In this tutorial I’ll show you how to assemble the latest upgrade for my Anet A8. The I-Bot uses the BONDTECH BMG extruder in conjunction with a E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd. As drive is a MOONS NEMA17 MS17HD5P4100 stepper motor used and the cooling fans are two NOCTUA NF-A4x10 FLX.

There’re sure some cheaper alternatives out there to realize this product, but the goal here is to use high quality components to prevent eventual possible quality contamination of the final product.

Step 1: The Parts...

Picture of The Parts...

Here is the list with the parts necessary to build the I-Bot Extruder:

  • 1 set - of printed plastic parts
    • you can get the design files here
    • print them yourself or have somebody do it for you
  • 1 pcs - BONDTECH BMG
  • 2 pcs - 40x40x10 NOCTURA Fan NF-A4x10 FLX
  • 1 pcs - 2-Phase stepper motor MOONS MS17HD5P4100
  • 4 pcs - Drylin bearings IGUS RJ4JP-01-08
  • 1 pcs - E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd
  • 3 pcs - 8 mm cable clip
    • I got those out of an assortment which I bought at Harbor Fright
  • 3 pcs - Tapered Heat-Set Inserts for Plastic
    • Brass, M2 x 0.40 mm Thread Size, 4.800 mm Installed Length - McMASTER CARR

  • 18 pcs - Tapered Heat-Set Inserts for Plastic
    • Brass, M2.5 x 0.45 mm Thread Size, 3.4 mm Installed Length - McMASTER CARR

  • 8 pcs - Tapered Heat-Set Inserts for Plastic
    • Brass, M3 x 0.50 mm Thread Size, 3.800 mm Installed Length - McMASTER CARR

All screws I used came out of this two boxes from AMAZON: AssortmentA and AssortmentB

  • 3 pcs - M2 x 10mm socket head screw
  • 6 pcs - M2.5 x 10mm socket head screw
  • 12 pcs - M2.5 x 16mm socket head screw
  • 6 pcs - M3 x 20mm socket head screw
  • 2 pcs - M3 x 30mm socket head screw
  • 3 pcs - M2 washers
  • 24 pcs - M3 washers

Make sure the plastic parts are cleaned up as good as possible if necessary to ensure proper fitting. I used PETG as printing material because of its mechanical properties. The printer settings probably differ from device to device, I used the following settings:

  • bed temperature 60° C / 70° C for the first layer
  • print temperature 235° C / 240° C for the first layer
  • slicer software is Slic3R
  • nozzle 0.4 mm
  • print bed - glass with BuildTak
These look like really easy to follow instructions and it's great that you're providing them for others with your printer :)
Intector (author)  Penolopy Bulnick6 months ago
Thank you very much, it's great to see that others like the stuff you do.
Nothing is more frustrating than having bad or even wrong descriptions or instructions. I understand a good service as a key for a good product and explaining something as some kind of help. It is sometimes very tricky to come up with instructions clear enough to be comprehensible for a broad range of people while still conveying the actual necessary information. If you're an engineer and develop machines or products yourself you're confronted with two major issues. You could sliding down the slippery slope where you start explaining technicalities too detailed or, you expect everyone to have knowledge of details which appear to yourself as normal.