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Step 7: Saddle Stitch

Saddle stitching is one of the neatest parts of leathercraft to me! It holds the leather together, and because each stitch is an overhand knot, it holds better than a sewing machine stitch and can stay together even if one stitch breaks from abuse!

Needle A and Needle B are both attached to one long piece of waxed polyester thread (pic 1). The needles are threaded through the hole, and then that needle pierces the thread about an inch from the end. This holds the thread on the needle during stitching without a knot.

To begin, I pull one needle through my first hole, and make sure the thread length on either side is equal (pics 2, 3). For this wallet, I add some reinforcement on the first and last holes by pulling Needle A and then Needle B through the same hole (pics 4, 5, 11).

Needle A then goes through the next hole, leaving a bit of a loop (pic 6).

Needle B goes partly through that same hole from the other side (pic 7). Make sure Needle B doesn't pierce the thread that's already there!

The thread loop made by Needle A loops around Needle B (pic 8).

Needle B gets pulled the rest of the way through the hole (pic 9), and both needles get pulled tight.

That's a saddle stitch! I do this the rest of the way along the edge, making sure I add the cardholder strap at the right place.