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Picture of Make a Large Round Dining Table With Turntable

Here is how I made our new 60" (152cm) round dining table that has a 24" (61cm) diameter turntable so everyone has easy access to the dishes. It's large enough to seat 8 comfortably. I wanted to have a natural wood look.

The top is removable (it is heavy, about 80 lbs/36 kg) and sits in place under it's own weight. A wooden dowel pin is used to center it on the base and cork pads on the top of each leg ensure accidental bumps will not shift it. The turntable sits on top of the main table and can be removed if needed.

Step 1: The Design

The table was built in 3 parts as shown in the figure on the left. The turntable has the Lazy Susan Bearing embedded in its underside and simply sits on the main table. Both the turntable and the main table were made from 1-1/4" thick stock and the lower edge on both was beveled with a 15 degree low angle bevel bit in a router table.

The base is made from 4 posts (3-1/4" square, 28" tall) and held together with mortise and tenon joints. In addition, dowel pins were added to further secure the mortises. I used maple dowel pins and left them about 3/8" recessed. I then cut plugs from some left over walnut to give them pins a decorative look. An 8" square plate (with dadoes for the cross members) is used to ensure the assembly is square. It also has the 1/2" dowel in its center that is used to align the table top with the base. As the base is only 28" high, it can be turned sideways and carried though any door opening.

Most of my measurements are shown in imperial units, but my drawings have metric on them as well. Lumber here is supplied in imperial measurements and it is much easier to buy router bits and other cutting tools in imperial sizes than metric ones despite the fact Canada is "all" metric.

Rather than using the larger forstner bit radius for the corners of the mortice, you could have pre-drilled them using a smaller bit like an 8-10mm spade or forstner, so all that would have been needed is to take a few swipes with a rasp and de-arris the tenons. Minor extra step, but less work than chiselling or swapping out for a roundover bit on the router table.

MarcellS2 (author)  austin.hall.12979411 months ago

I'm not sure I understand how a smaller bit would be better. Do you mean drilling two holes at the end of each mortise to form the corners? So it would be drilling 4 holes in total per mortise (for the corners) and then adjust the fence position for each set? I chose the Forstner bit diameter to match my tenon width. The setup (drilling with one large bit) allowed for a consistent mortise position and length without having to move the fence. Did I misunderstand you?

seamster11 months ago

This turned out beautifully! I especially like the sturdy, clean-looking base. Very nicely done.

MarcellS2 (author)  seamster11 months ago

Thank you!

jbrauer11 months ago

About 20 years ago, I ordered plans and built the New Yankee Workshop Carousel Table. I think they mention the design was based on a table from around Charleston, SC. My family has been using the table nightly since then. The spar polyurethane is starting to flake off in places, but it is mechanically sound. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrGEXAafo5c

MarcellS2 (author)  jbrauer11 months ago

I remember watching that episode years ago and even thought of that design instead of using a lazy susan bearing. That is a very nice table also!