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Picture of Plane Blade Regrinding Jig
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My electric planer ran over a nail which put a 2.5mm deep chip in one blade, and a 1mm chip in the other.

To get rid of the chips, both blades had to be ground back 2.5mm and then the cutting angle had to be restored. This is the Jig I made to do the job.

Because the grinding wheel on my grinder is 150mm and the wheel does not stick out past the motor housing, a blade that is any wider than 95mm runs into the motor housing. To get a bit of extra room I set the blade up on the wheel so that when it traversed to the right, it moved into one of the bolt holes of the motor cover, giving me an extra 20mm of clearance. If your grinding wheel clears the motor housing, then it may be possible to build a much bigger jig to re-grind planer/thicknesser blades. (!!!)

The key to this design is a horizontal slide attached to the bench grinder where the grinding rest normally bolts on. I considered making a slide that would fit over the grinding rest, but I couldn't think of a way to make it secure enough.

Step 1: Materials:

Pine:

75 mm x 13 mm x 130 mm (main slide backing)

68 mm x 13 mm x 160 mm (top slide backing)

65 mm x 20 mm x 50 mm (Hinge Joiner)

Maple

2 x 9 mm x 11 mm x 160 mm (main slide rails)

2 x 9 mm x 11 mm x 130 mm (upper slide rails)

1 x 35 mm x 9 mm x 160 mm (main slide)

1 x 50 mm x 9 mm x 130 mm (upper slide)

3 mm Plywood:

2 x 15 mm x 160 mm (main slide retainers)

2 x 65 mm x 25 mm (spacers)

1 x 45 mm x 45 mm x 3 mm steel angle

1 x 6mm machine bolt, 35 mm long, preferably with a countersink head

1 x 6mm wingnut

1 x 6mm washer, OD 18mm

1 x 65mm hinge

2 x 5mm countersink head machine screws, 15mm long

2 x 4mm flat head machine screws 10mm long

2 x 10g countersunk wood screws 25 mm long

6 x 12g countersunk woodscrews 15 mm long

Panel pins

PVA Glue

pfred28 months ago
I'm fixing to come up with a new technique for my 12" thickness planer blades. I hate the way I sharpen them now. Which is why I do it so infrequently. Though unless I really muff them up hitting a nail it won't be this. Actually if I chip them I'll probably run the other spare set I have. I saw Paul Sellers sharpening some spokeshave irons in a video of his and it gave me an idea for how I might sharpen my planer blades in the future. You're close to what he was doing in your last step. But you have what's clamped reversed. If you clamp the blade on the wood you can use your bench top to maintain an angle by just adjusting how far up you clamp the blade in a bench vise. I think Google is messing with me. When I look at images searching the term, sliding grinder tool rest mine comes up second. Hey wait a minute what's my picture doing on pinterest? I didn't even post that! I uploaded it to imgur. Hmmm. Anyhow here's a link to Mr. Sellers sharpening a spokeshave blade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZwzBbcwbgU It is up around the 37 minute mark if you don't want to watch Wood Jesus whole video. But who wouldn't?
obillo11 months ago

Clever work! Please excuse my pedantry in noting the the proper term is plane IRON. It's hundreds of years old and worth preserving as part of the craftsmanship tradition. That said, I will now get to work on copying your jig.

pfred2 obillo8 months ago
It is proper to refer to blades in hand planes as plane irons. In a power planer you can call them blades. They did not have power planers hundreds of years ago. In fact I call all of the blades in all of my power planers blades. Because that's what they are. Tough buggers to sharpen too.
Bverysharp (author)  obillo11 months ago

Thanks Obilo. Happy grinding!

Kink Jarfold11 months ago

What an interesting concept. Nicely described, too. KJ

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Bverysharp (author)  Kink Jarfold11 months ago

Thanks.

Alex in NZ11 months ago

Neat jig. Thank you for the idea :-)

Bverysharp (author)  Alex in NZ11 months ago

Thanks. It only took a few hours to build.

oldersir211 months ago

Got more guts than me, I'd have used a jig and done it with Scary Sharp.

Bverysharp (author)  oldersir211 months ago

Thanks.

HC1511 months ago

Nice job, and well documented too. I've considered something like this in the past, and will archive this for possible use later. About honing the blades, I've done that with my 6" powermatic joiner knives using my own homemade jig and some 400 then 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.

My jig uses the same principle of the "Quik-Hone" or "Deulen" type sharpening jig, which holds two knives at opposing 45deg angles. You hone the two knives at the same time, dragging them across the sandpaper on a perfectly flat surface. This virtually guarantees a consistent angle. For a 3-knife cutterhead like mine, you label and rotate all three knives in and out of the jig as necessary in order to ensure equal amount of sharpening.

But unlike the pricey Quik-Hone or Deulen jigs, you can quickly make your own jig from a block of wood, even a 2 x 4 scrap if it's the proper density. Simply surface the bottom and two long edges to be perfectly flat/square, then run it across your table saw with the blade set at 45 to make two slots of sufficient depth to hold the knives securely. After the first slot cuts, you'll likely need to bump the saw fence slightly in or out and repeat the cuts to get the proper "interference fit" on the knives.

That's the critical part--you don't want any play/slop for gripping the knives, yet you don't want it too tight a fit, such that the knives are very hard to remove. And you can remove them by prying up at one end using a scratch awl to get started, etc. Be careful, as they get SHARP!

The best part is you can make such a jig in just a matter of a few minutes!

Bverysharp (author)  HC1511 months ago

Thanks for that. I will give it a go.