book collections email follower instructable user

I bought this rusty chipped Japanese kitchen knife for few bucks to restore it. I was thinking what sort of handle I would like to do and I came up with an idea to change the traditional band around the neck of the knife into a secret wood type clear resin casting. I love winter and snow, and there currently a lot of snow where I live so I thought I'd like to have slightly blue ice looking resin on the handle. This was my first try at casting resins and it turned out quite well (on my second try).

Step 1: Restoring the Blade

i started by removing the handle with chisel and cutting the black plastic band off with a dremel. Underneath I found badly rusted tang. I decided to dump the blade in vinegar overnight so the rust comes off easily. I am going to sand the knife anyways but I thing it's often best to remove rust first so I know I'm not sanding off any stamps an If I have extremely bad pitting which requires me to start with very rough sand paper. After vinegar I used a wire brush to cleaned the blade. I also noticed the very edge of the blade was dark after vinegar which means the blade probably has very hard steel inside maybe a stainless steel jacket.

I decided to also use a belt sander to remove rust from the tang as it was badly rusted. After this I took out most of the pitting from the blade with the belt sander. this was followed with sanding down the chipped parts of the edge on the disk sander. Because I sanded the edge down I now had to regrind the bevels so I moved back to the belt sander to do most of the work. I finished the edged by filing as I personally find that more accurate way to do it.

After the blade was already usable but not very sharp or shiny I moved to polishing as polishing is also usually a good way to get extremely sharp knife. I started by sanding the sides of the blade with 120 and 240 grit papers on a block to keep the sides as flat as possible. I did some hand sanding around the makers mark to keep it intact. Then hand sanded the whole blade with grits 400, 800, 1200 and 2000. When sanding, every time you move to finer grit you might want to change the direction you sand slightly so you can see when you have removed all the scratches from the previous grits.

After getting the blade to 2000 grits it was already quite shiny but using metal polish compound on wool buffing wheel takes it to next level. I have found that during winter when I use these wax based compounds I need a little higher RPM to get a good polish than I need during summer. I think it helps the wax to melt the wax giving better polish.